Derek Lam could not be more upbeat - and with good reason. As the most recent winner of CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund's award, he can't make clothes fast enough. Super celebs like Sarah Jessica Parker were at the show, fully dressed in Wang himself.
The collection being almost all black; a thick, white jacket with fur sleeves and white button ups were sprinkled in. All the designs shown at the Roseland Ballroom are young, sexy cutouts, which kind of made you feel a fatal attraction to the girls.
At the after party, where Hooter's did the catering, Alexander said white designing this collection, he was striving to figure something out. "What does growing up mean for our girl?"
So, what do you think about when you imagine your grown up style? Could you see yourself giving into pantsuits and monochrome outfits, or could you keep your personal style up?
PS - i'm leaving for NYC tonight, keep me company!
With everything going on in the fashion world - half of Proenza's getting headbutted, London i.D.'s alleged death - it's hard to concentrate on three month old fashion.
But, three months old or not, people are still crazy for Balmain. In the space of two seasons he has thought up something other than a fake vuitton bag to be copied: the tennis ball style jackets, the rhinestone studded sandals. Could he keep it up this season?
It was all kind of the same silhouette: those same shoulder shapes and too short dresses,sprinkled with a draped pant and lots of swarovski crystal. But none of those sandals - maybe he was trying to show he could do something different? Every look was shoved into big black boots. He may have turned the fashion world around a little, but can he keep surprising ?
Lately, Erdem Moralioglu is being called the Christian Lacroix of London, and with good reason. His fall collection was filled with everything from shoulder pads to black lace, and that's not the end of it.
His summer collection, all soft and flowing, was contrasted with bold shapes and even bolder colors. Filled with rich blacks, reds and blues, Erdem traded water colours for pop art hues and hasn't looked back. The new silhouettes are more feminine and romanticized, but with a really cool edge. Baby doll frocks were covered in bright florals (kind of modern monet), and gooorgeous embroidery. There were long sleeves, black tights, strong shoulders and matching booties! When in the world was the last time you saw someone actually pull that off?
When i wear something really out of character, whether it looks good or not, i feel kind of fake. Could your wardrobe make a complete turn around after just one season ?
Jean Paul Gaultier showed a dominatrix styled show for fall 09. Not such a surprise coming from the man that designed Madonna's tour costumes: skin tight black suits and kilts for her male backup dancers. The runway was set to walk through a setup of a kind of 50's style cabaret; models coming to the end of the runway sipping whiskey out of glass cups. classy.
All dressed up in him and hers; men had three piece suits and women had high-necked structured pieces. Primarily in black; blue, red, white and camel touches were added here & there too.
All of the looks had an S&M quality about them, complete with black fishnets and "X" cut outs.
The show ended with new supermodel Coco Rocha getting into a fight in a mud pit with another model, only being put to a stop by a real dominatrix, complete with a whip. Is all this too taboo or could you make it your own ?
With a palette of camel, gray, black and a deep deep gold, Derek Lam showed his fall collection. His inspiration coming from Louis Malle's 1958 filmAscenseur pour l'échafaud,the collection was full of superluxe furs and everything you'd expect. "It's all about luxury while at the same time feeling casual and relaxed," said Derek. The models walked on soft beige carpeting, à la YSL interiors, with smoked out eyes and red liner in front of everyone from Vogue.
More cozy than previous collections, it contained lots of lavish furs. Still made from real fur, (sorry peta), but it's coyote to keep the cost down. Not completely new were his figure fitting dresses topped with oversized tuxedo jackets. I love all the new designers and their aesthetic, but where are the evening gowns? Is it simply that young girls don't necessarily wear evening gowns or are they scared? On the other hand, Derek Lam is famous for sportswear.
Young &upcoming designer, Jason Wu, showed his fall 2009 - and with much pressure, though you couldn't tell. After starting his own like just four years ago, lots of celebrities were already wearing his designs. But since Michelle Obama wore one of his gowns to the inaugural ball, then again on the cover of March Vogue, Jason's been on everyone's mind - even Anna Wintour.
The collection is designed tastefully for the twenty-something princesses: super pretty and romantic. And it's very hard to pull romance off at sixteen. Wu has an aesthetic that you don't really see anymore. His line isn't extravagantly priced and is more than wearable, yet has small couture details. He has the ability to dress everyone from prom queen to the first lady herself.
There has been lots of talk over Michelle Obama's fashion sense, have you been paying attention ?
With all of the 80s references, I couldn't have been happier when i saw dolce & gabbana's Elsa Schiaparelli-inspired line for fall. Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana reached for the line's perfect necklace: small pocket watches hanging from a chain, to really see that it's time to change.
"Surrealism" is the first word that came out of Stefano Gabbana's mouth backstage, and it's what he meant. The models walked down the blacked out catwalk topped with black and red leather gloves. It was a full does of iconic hollywood - complete with Marilyn Monroe printed dresses and long-haired,hot pink fur coats. The front row was completely packed - including the latest face of continuous face of d & g herself, Scarlett Johansson.
"Everything comes from the heart," said Stefano Gabanna, before the show.
What are the differences in your work when you put your heart into what you do ?
Last week, McQueen went to Paris. Finally, a fashion show this season. The press release simply stated something about greatest hits. Thinking it would be just another economic affect, I was kind of in a daze. Bright red baby doll lips and exaggerated hips woke me right up.
Maybe the answer to all of our problems is recycling. Models topped with lampshades, umbrellas and coke cans walked on a shattered glass runway around recycled pieces of previous shows: everything from wooden chairs to a kitchen sink.
Looks like MQ came at just the right time because just when everything this fall was getting pushed more and more towards middle-aged women, out came twisted houndstooth and and all the prints we love him for.
"Even against the odds, you can still create beauty and the things you want to." - Shaun Leane, at the show.
As a designer, would you go with the trends or run the other way ?
After the much anticipated announcement of Mr. Valentino's retirement and the dismissal of the first pick for his replacement, Alessandra Facchinetti, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli made their first ready-to-wear debut in Paris.
All 41 beige and jewel toned dresses were sensibly styled to respect the brand. But, the deal was the new designers must push it forward and attract a new age - the young girls. While this collection was polite and pretty, I wanted to turn up the volume. Maybe this is me just being a teenager, but isn't that who they're going for ? And even without so much theatrics, this is valentino. It's less romantic now. Maria and Pier have to find a way to bring a youthfulness while still paying homage to Mr. V.
Could you just stand back and watch something with your name on it go in a different direction ?
I've been a fan of Dean & Dan since thirteen when I caught the late night reruns of America's Next Top Model. For Fall 2009, they showed us what we see every night on TMZ: oversized sunglasses, it bags, Starbucks, and a blackberry, (permanently attached). They brought Sunset Boulevard to Milan. The models looked as if they walked straight out of the party and onto the runway; right after they confused their boyfriend's jeans with their own. Evening gowns with leather jackets and tons of bling. It was cool and Olsen-chic, but nothing new. Maybe this slight obsession with Hollywood is from their new project - designing Britney Spears' concert costumes.
Should today's fashion be inspired by the It girls or INSPIRE the It girls ?
For Fall 2009, Luella Bartley used the always popular ' 80's punk in London ' as inspiration. Compared to her last collection of bright purple and orange, they dark palette is a great contrast.
Every girl had a different look: long hair, short hair, dark hair, pink hair. It was like you fell out of the fashion tent and onto Oxford Street. Each girl had their own attitude and style, but it was still cohesive. She even got hipster It girl Pixie Geldof to model some looks. The dark greys and blacks made the original details like red lips and gold clutches more special. The collection has value, an essential asset today, using everything from tweed to worn leather.
Luella shows us Fall will be sprinkled with heart lockets, crossbones and more shiny gold.
For Spring, Marc Jacobs channeled the 80's - and plenty of it. With his dangerous twenties spent in NYC serving as inspiration, it was like crayola crayons walking down the runway. His rebellious side was still there during the production, when he started minutes early despite the empty seats.
Structure was apparent in both the clothes and the hair - with big, shoulder-padded jackets and contrasting hair on model after model marching down the runway. The tights and bags were kind of stephen sprouse,-ish which is understandable since Marc, in Louis Vuitton, just did a collaboration with Stephen Sprouse prints. BTW, Marc just moved to Paris, full time. Maybe all of these city references are just one big kiss goodbye to the city that never sleeps.
Should fashion be an escape of the real world, or reflect the current times ?
For Pre-Fall 2009, Jack & Lazaro created this collection for the real girls they know. And,what they'd wear if they were girls. White tees ? Out. Purple leather dresses ? In.
I think I'm in love. I'm not really into high waisted leather shorts, though, but I can forgive.
John Galliano took an unexpected light hand to the thought of Spring 2009. And ready to wear is fitting this year because the clothes were, strangely enough, ready to wear.
Galliano's flamboyant side has been toned down by pretty florals and whimsical dresses. But, there was no lack of drama in the hair and make-up department. The permed, sky high wigs bound by baby pink ribboms with the strong cheek almost balanced out the softness of the new spring dresses.
Do you think Galliano will stick with this newly acquired light hand ?